Pipeline legend Gerry Lopez is not only known for being somewhat of a GodFather for our sport but also as a man with wisdom even well beyond his years. If you can get past the cheesy cinematics and pasty lay tourists, this little clip has some very interesting perspectives that are so simple you’d wonder why you never lived like this before.
In this lecture for St. Charles Healthcare, Lopez offers advice on how to create a meaningful life by living in the present. He uses surfing as a metaphor for the ever-changing medium of time, and he urges listeners to embrace life spontaneously as it comes.
I’ve always tried to soak up every bit of wisdom from those people who have lived it. Learn from other peoples’ experiences and then go out and make your own. No better sport than surfing to live in the present. See you in the water. SwellSpy.